Africa Part 2: A New Adventure

A new adventure is in the works... a return to Africa, but this time it will be to Tanzania and I will have my forever friend to share it with. Stay tuned as we work out the kinks, get ourselves organized and educated, and prepare for our Tanzanian volunteer trip. I am not exactly sure what to expect but I do know that Africa is under my skin and from the first breath of fresh Kenyan air, I was convinced Africa was the cradle of civilization -- I felt like I had come home.

Well things are in full motion and the flurry of emails have begun -- how to prepare and articles to read about Tanzania; suggested Swahili language CDs and books; vaccination requirements; visas and entry paperwork; and the list goes on...

Tanzania is taking shape before my very eyes and I can feel that tingling in the pit of my stomach that I get when I anticipate something good is about to happen. When my friend asked me about Africa and told me she would like to voluntour with me, I was afraid to get my hopes up. I waited for several days for her email with subject line: Trip. Then it arrived with the simple message: "How do we book this thing?"

We finally had a chance to touch base today after having booked the volunteer part of the trip last week. We were giddy and full of questions, ideas, and speculations - all expressed in rapid succession, in overlapping sentences. It'll be our first trip together since we were 14 and 16 years old and we both agree that it is OVERDUE!

We have no illusions; although it's called a volunteer trip, the purpose is really a cultural exchange to ultimately build bridges. We will leave with more than we give and if we are lucky, we will leave a little of us behind and take a piece of Tanzania home with us. It has me reflecting alot on our attitudes and intentions toward developing nations. I realize that often our good intentions have far reaching, negative consequences and I have to take more time to research my participation in philanthropic efforts to ensure that they align with sustainability and do no harm.

In the meantime we will have months of planning and anticipation to look forward to. I am beyond excited even though it is months away, however at the risk of wishing my life away, I will anticipate the trip with a measure of restrain (but not really)!

Community Welcome

We were an oddly pieced together group who seemed to have an easy bond. Conversation was bubbling constantly, enthusiasm overflowing like foam on a hastily poured beer. It was as though we needed one another for nothing else than to have assurances that we were indeed experiencing something special.

We loaded into the fleet of Land rovers and headed over to Elenerai Primary School to meet the community. We were reminded that we were considered to be guests by the local people and to conduct ourselves accordingly; refrain from randomly snapping pictures without first establishing a relationship or asking permission.

As we pulled up we were once again greeted with song. The children were clustered at the entrance and sang through their grins. Each one high-fived us or shook our hand as we passed, and asked us "What is your name?". We walked slowly, navigating the flood of children and the ocean of emotion that was welling, and the joy that was flowing abundantly.  Such open, genuine hospitality as I have ever known.

We sat under a canopy as the welcome continued in a somewhat more "formal" fashion. The whole community turned out - teachers, students, parents, elders and the Me to We youth groupfrom the Bogani tent camp who were there to school build. Each adult stood and introduced themselves, as did we. The children organized in front of us and performed a few songs, clapping and moving their bodies to the rhythm. Then the Mamas took over, singing and clapping as they made their way from the back to the front where we sat, motioning to join them, pulling us up to dance. We sat shyly at first and then one by one we just let go and went with it ... losing ourselves in the moment, in the celebration.
Cameron's dad was presented with a goat as a gift from the community and suddenly the little herd of goats that wandered the Bogani camp made sense.

Speeches were eloquently delivered, applause given, and gratitudes exchanged. The sense of community pride was palpable. One of the community elders thanked us for using our precious time to visit his country and to learn more about Kenya. He told us that although they appreciated the work we would do at the school, the real value in us being there was that we would become ambassadors of the Kenya we would soon discover; that we would take our stories and knowledge about their country home to our own countries. He stood tall and erect, his voice strong and words measured. After a pregnant pause and more applause everyone dispersed to play with the children.

We asked each child their name ... and I was surprised at the number of biblical names. I met at least a dozen little girls named Naomi. They would ask us our names and then repeat them back to us like a chorus. You could tell they enjoyed the sound of some names more than others by their smiles and inflections. Names they liked would be hollered out in sing song voices ending with giggles. Others would simply be repeated in quick monotone response.

Darcy's new friends showing her their new classroom.

The children were full of fun and wanted nothing from us other than a picture. They posed willingly, regrouping with different friends and then gathering eagerly around the camera to wait for their image to appear. Then they would ask, "Please - one more. Me only".

The whole time I tried to grasp what I was witnessing and the experience I was partaking in. The first day of our Bogani journey was a long one ... full and emotional. We ended the day with dinner in the dining porch. It was magical. The fires blazing in the fireplace and the chimineas that dotted the perimeter countered the chill of the fresh Mara air and coupled with the vast inky sky - created the perfect atmosphere to decompress. We nursed our wine and Tuskers as we chattered about our day and when it came time to honour the tradition of sharing our highlight of the day, my throat mysteriously tightened and all I could muster was "ditto" to the previous person's remarks. More tears. Honestly -- as someone who prides myself on my iron clad control and restraint, I was completely baffled by my teary responses - and the cause of them.

Darcy and I donned our headlamps (ha! and she laughed at me when I bought them) to journal as the electricity was only turned on for a few hours each evening and shut off around 10:30. This of course varied according to the World Cup game schedule. Our good intentions to journal were cut short ... the sum total of the day took its toll. We dropped our mosquito nets and snuggled our hot water bottles and succumbed.

Our Fearless Leaders and Caregivers

Our first day at Bogani was a long one - long but satisfying. There was so much "new" to absorb, with little time to do it. After we settled into our new digs, rinsed the Mara dust from our faces and inhaled deeply we relaxed into a delicious lunch served al fresco under the canopy and Mara breezes of our dining porch.

Kim and Mary

Before we ate, Kim - one of our facilitators - introduced Mary, who introduced the meal. Through her wide, glistening smile she gave a run down of the delectables about to be served. This was a ritual that was repeated every meal. Isaiah was our waiter and he worked with Mary to pamper us, filling our glasses with fresh juice and our bowls with desserts and fruit salad. He was Maasai and had large holes in his ears with beaded jewelry in them. We were fascinated by them and he laughed when I told him that Darcy had tried to make bigger holes in her ears too. And then there was Flo - a fantastic, beautiful force of positivity who managed Bogani and took care of our every comfort. She shared so much of herself with us and was a big part of the reason we felt so welcomed and at home there.

Flo, Darcy and Mary

The facilitators were great; intelligent warm and accommodating. We started with Emily and Kim in Nairobi. We left Emily behind and met Michelle at Wilson airport for the flight to the Mara. Kim has been involved with Free the Children since she was twelve years old and is now an accomplished speaker and motivator. Michelle and her husband both work for Free the Children and are raising a son in Nairobi.

Michelle - photo courtesy of Robin Strachan

Cameron rounded out the facilitator team - the sole male amongst a pride of courageous lionesses. He was affectionately called Camaroon by everyone we met. Kim and Cameron were especially supportive of and encouraging to Darcy regarding her interest in international development. The staff worked nonstop and had a way of providing a cohesive foundation for the group.

Camaroon

I couldn't end this post without introducing the four Maasai warriors who accompanied us everywhere and shared their knowledge of the wildlife, plants and culture.

James, Darcy, Jackson, Lyn & Clinton

Wilson

Now that everyone has been introduced, you can all come along for the rest of the journey - the next best thing to being there.

On the Mara - Jambo Bogani

Landed on the Mara

The Great Rift Valley

We landed in our Cessna on the grassy plains of the Mara. It was like a scene from Out of Africa. Children with wide grins and dogs suddenly appeared out of no where (or so it seemed), racing our plane as it taxied to a stop. It was our first welcome party and as I viewed the scene from the small portal window in the plane, I could feel my eyes filling.  The flight had debuted the majestic vistas of the Great Rift Valley, the mountain ranges and the lush green and gold patchwork of the farms and grazing lands below. I was running on emo-overload; Darcy was struggling not to toss her cookies!

We eagerly accepted the invitation to hike the 15 minutes from the airstrip to the Bogani cottages. I lingered back from the pack, casually snapping pictures as I walked, breathing deeply - filling my lungs with the freshness of the cool air, admiring every plant, tree and curiosity that I saw. I got a personal introduction to the thorny acacia tree while I wasn't looking.

We walked through the gates of Bogani with more than a little excitement tingling in our tummies. There was a collective feeling of anticipation building which deepened even further when we heart faint strains of what sounded like children singing. It got louder the closer we got, and when we rounded the corner, nothing could have prepared me for what we saw next, and the welcome that awaited us. The Bogani staff were lined up, swaying, singing their hearts out. More tears ...

I knew we were in for something extra special. We got introduced to the cottage that would be our home for the next five days. And now I will do the same for you ...

Our open air dining hall

The view from the dining hall.

Notes from my journal:

Surreal to be here. Everyone feels it. I have to pinch myself to assure that I am indeed in this majestic, magical country. I am more excited than ever for the rest of our journey to unfold. Our group is lively, from different occupations and walks of life, ages - with one thing in common: a desire to learn and understand the Kenyan way of life and the challenges this nation faces. We all want to give back in any way we can. The group is giving, unselfish and generous with one another. It is amazing to me that in a few short days they are feeling like old friends.

Day 1 - Ellies, Giraffes and Beads

To ease us into our new time zone and sooth the jet lag somewhat they had us spend a full day in the Nairobi area before we headed out to Bogani. This included visiting David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Elephant Orphanage - our first taste of the African wildlife up close and personal. Many of the ellies were orphaned as a result of poaching and the killing of their parents. The handlers bring the baby ellies out each day for an hour at 11 am so people can watch them feed and then romp and play. The infants love to wrestle with one another, piling into a muddle of reddish skin and dirt. It was mesmerizing to watch the personalities of these playful mini giants emerge so quickly before our eyes. Just when it wasn't surreal enough ... "cue giraffes"  two giraffes sauntered gracefully across the backdrop of the whole ellie scene. Pinch me.

 

We moved along to the Giraffe Centre which is dedicated to breeding and preserving the endangered Rothschild giraffe. You can feed the giraffes and if you are feeling a little lonely and don't mind a long tongue, you can even share a big wet kiss with a long necked beauty.

After lunch our final stop was a visit to the Kazuri Bead Factory. Kazuri means “small and beautiful” in Swahili and the factory produces hand made ceramic jewellery, beads and tableware. The neat thing about this place is that it started with two Kenyan women and grew to provide sustainable employment for many other single mothers who need regular employment. Kazuri has grown and prospered and now ships their handmade jewellery all over the world. The shop is an explosion of colour and textures and completely lures you in. I found myself loading my basket with a potpourri of shiny beads, necklaces and bracelets - gifts for the girls and women in my life back home. Because it was Sunday, the workers were off however the shop echoed with their vibration, laughter and the positive, handwritten posters taped to the walls told the rest of the story. This was a good place in which dignity resides - a workplace in which the women could access the health clinic; feel proud of their craftsmanship and entertain possibility.

Notes from my journal:

~ peaceful breakfast on the veranda at Karen Blixen, breathing in the freshness and peace

~ an embarassing encounter with the coffee press

~ getting a piece of branch from a local man to clean my teeth

~ scenic beauty of the National Reserve

~ Tuskers in the bar before dinner

~ dinner with candlelight and Celtic strings

~ stimulating conversation

~ tearful when asked about my personal highlight of the day ... dream come true

~ wishing I could share this with hubby

Next stop ... FTC Bogani camp on the Mara.

Let Me Introduce You

Our original group of 13 expanded to include some other smaller groups. We ranged in age from 14 to 60, and came from central and west coast areas of Canada, Phoenix, San Fransisco, and Texas. We started off strangers and within a day, were like a blended disfunctional family who took care of one another.

Let me make some introductions:

Lovely Lisa (Texas teacher) & Mama Megan (Phoenix). These beautiful ladies shared our Bogani cottage ... as the gigglers in the loft. Lisa was seeking reflection time for the next phase of her life. Megan and I shared something special and had more than being 50 in common.

The Canadian Teachers - Stephanie, Naomi & Susan. They journeyed to Kenya to help build and see first hand the school that their primary students had worked so hard to raise the funds for.

Travis the Single Guy & Rebecca the Sweet Single Teacher. Travis took alot of teasing as "the single guy" and was under close monitoring by Darcy as she studied for potential sparks. Think we found some?

West Coast Honey Mooners Drew & Kim. This dynamic duo plunged themselves into this experience in the name of their son who at age 8 worked for several years to help raise money for the school.

Sweet Janine  & Lively Laura ( Can Teacher). Janine was a loving soul who has dedicated herself to her personal convictions. Laura was our roommate at Bogani and we loved her perspectives on education and life.

Dr Jon & Janice (another Canadian teacher). This couple really grew on me. Jon was quiet and reflective and Janice was extremely inqusitive and expressive.

San Fran Teacher Tania, origninally from Mexico. Anything this tender hearted lady said sounded glorious; her soft accent was addictive.

The Family T - Denise, Adriana, Jeremy, Lorne. This family have travelled the world together and are the most interesting family I have met.

Robin and Gavin (Cameron's other mom and dad) were there to see their son in action!


More than once I caught Gavin's eyes brimming with pride and big wet ones as he watched his son interact with the children, and saw how they loved him back so freely.

Here is a shot of part of the group on the top of the Mountain of Strength - including Jackson, the Maasai Warrior who spent alot of time with us.

Landed in a Dream

When I was thinking of what to write first about our trip, the answer seems logical: start at the beginning. But honestly, I can't decide when the trip started. So our posts will not be linear, in a perfect straight timeline, but rather in clumps of memories and impressions, just as they materialized to us.

I suppose the magic started just outside the ladies' washroom in the Nairobi airport. A pretty woman with golden hair grabbed my arm and asked me if I was Lyn. My mind raced ... had I dropped my passport? I answered that yes I was, and her face burst into a sparkling smile. "I recognised you ... actually Darcy ... from your blog." Instantaneous warmth, familiarity and kinship. She introduced herself as Megan and the spark was set. We had our first friend! In the hours following the lengthy wait for a visa and then baggage Megan was assigned to the same bungalow as Darcy and I at the Karen Blixen Coffee Garden Cottages. The universe made a perfect match. Later that night we met our roommate Lisa who would complete our quartet for our Nairobi stay.

Staying on the exact property that made up Karen Blixen's coffee plantation was surreal for me. Out of Africa is one of my favourite movies and I found myself walking around in a dream turned into reality. This  would the recurring theme of our trip ... walking in a dream.

Our first night in Africa - in Kenya - was a mardi gras to my senses. Everything was exciting - the authentically decorated cottage with the mosquito net and stone floors and shower; the screams, twerps and chirps of exotic birds unknown to me; thumps and pitter patters of the feet of little creatures on our roof and the surprisingly cool, fresh air that we inhaled deeply and exhaled reluctantly.

Megan, Darcy and I walked explored our little patch of luxury eagerly chorusing oohs and ahhhs and giggling like school girls (that would be Megs and I).

From my journal: Woke up early this morning to the sounds of birds whistling, a dog barking and the crowing of a rooster. Africa is amazing. She assaults your senses, crawls under your skin and holds you tightly in her grip.

The first day was spent getting acquainted with the other people who would become our far away family. Introductions to follow!

Breakfast on the verandah at Karen Blixen Coffee Garden.